Beal Air Force 3 – Alpine Tube Belay Device

In my years of climbing experience, I have tried different belay devices. You can hardly avoid an alpine tube if you are climbing multi-pitch routes or using half ropes. I became aware of the Beal Air Force 3 when I was looking for a belay device for thin ropes that would also be suitable for thicker ropes.

• According to Beal, the device reduces rope wear
• Usable for single, half, and twin ropes
• For rope diameters from 7.3 to 10.5mm
• Weight 93g

Alpine tube with different braking sides

The special feature of the Air Force 3 is that both sides have a groove for the rope. One side additionally has braking grooves, while the other does not. This allows you to easily switch between two braking forces, depending on the rope and the situation.

Here is the side with the braking grooves.

And here is the other side. With other tubes, there is often a rather “sharp” edge here, which Beal has deliberately left out.

The opening on the side likely reduces the weight. My tube looks a bit worn due to all the ice climbing, as it often comes into contact with ice screws and tools.
 

Guide mode

The opening for the guide mode is oriented against the rope’s direction.

Here is a 9.8mm rope placed in the belay device.
 

Conclusion

What’s appealing about this belay device is that, according to the manufacturer, it can be used for ropes from 7.3 to 10mm. So, you don’t necessarily need different tubes for different ropes.

Belaying the second climber
In guide mode, the braking side with the grooves is predetermined. Even thicker ropes can be easily belayed here, especially when the tube is combined with a carabiner with a round cross-section.

Lead belaying
For lead belaying, it’s best to run the brake rope through the side with the braking grooves. This provides maximum braking force, while still allowing you to easily feed and take in rope. I’ve also belayed with a 10mm rope in single-strand mode. Since both sides have grooves, the rope doesn’t run over a sharp edge while lowering, which is supposed to reduce rope wear.

Rappelling and lowering
When rappelling and lowering, you don’t have to hold a fall. Here, the choice of side primarily depends on the rope diameter. When I use thin half ropes starting at 7.9mm, I run them through the side with the braking grooves. For example, with 9.5mm or thicker ropes, I use the other side in double-strand mode, but may use the side with more friction in single-strand mode.

Note for beginners
For beginners, the nearly identical-looking sides of the tube may require closer attention. Some other tubes are more obvious in this regard. 

Final word
Of course, this tube isn’t magical. Still, it has become my preferred tube, and I use it both on rock and ice. A major advantage, in my opinion, is its compatibility with different rope diameters. Being able to use 7.3mm half ropes and a 10mm rope with the same device is practical when you’re doing different activities with different ropes on a trip. However, for sport climbing, I prefer auto-tubes like the AustriAlpin Fish.