Rubber Gloves for Ice Climbing – A Practical Layer or a Cold Risk?
In the USA and Canada, it has been seen for a long time, and occasionally in the German-speaking region as well: ice climbers wearing rubber gloves. But have these people forgotten their expensive Gore-Tex gloves and spontaneously bought a replacement, or is this intentional? … It is intentional! In the 2022/2023 season, I first went to the icefalls equipped with different chemical gloves, and I was amazed. To make this topic more accessible and well-known on the internet, I decided to write this blog post. Here, I share my experiences with gloves and how I came across rubber gloves. Then, I introduce a few models that I have tested.
Background
When I started ice climbing, I initially only had mittens and fairly thin tactical gloves. Neither was very practical for gripping the ice tool well and staying dry. Then, I tried softshell gloves, which are impregnated but eventually soak through too quickly. Over time, I became aware of gloves from Arc’teryx. These consist of a Gore-Tex outer glove and a removable fleece inner glove. They served me well on my multi-day hiking and ski tours, and since the inner glove can be removed, it dries quite well. On the ice, they also stayed dry but were too thick to grip the tools comfortably and efficiently. It was similar when handling ice screws and ropes. They were often too warm, and sweating made my hands wet and cold. However, for belaying and during breaks, these Gore-Tex gloves were a good solution.
For climbing, my tactical gloves provided a good grip but were not waterproof. So, I combined them with thin merino gloves that provided some warmth even when wet. This combination worked well until the gloves became too soaked. But under certain conditions, they stayed dry and were sufficient.
Discovering Rubber Gloves
On Instagram, I follow some ice climbers, and on YouTube, the Canadian boys “suddenly” started wearing rubber gloves. Then, one of the mountain guides on Instagram posted a link to the SHOWA Termes 282 with high praise. I had to try it and quickly ordered some gloves from Showa and other brands from a workwear specialist. With incredibly low prices, you can buy multiple pairs and change them while climbing. For the unlined models, I wore thin merino liners when needed and had great experiences. While these gloves don’t breathe, they are reliably waterproof. At the price of modern high-performance gloves, you can buy enough pairs to have dry gloves for an entire weekend.
Testing Different Models for Ice Climbing
I bought different models and found two clear favorites. I’ll start with these, and then list the others for completeness, though I don’t recommend them as much. Surely, there are other suitable models on the market that may even match an outfit better in color. However, in my opinion, ordering online is worthwhile since the selection in hardware stores is often limited.
Favorite 1: Showa Termes 282 Winter Gloves
Certification: EN 511 (Cold), Cat. II, EN 388 (Mechanical, 4221X), EN 420 (Work Gloves), CE Approved
This glove is a lined rubber glove designed for “cutting fish all day on a trawler”. It comes in a “stylish” blue color. The waterproof rubber coating extends to the cuff.
Inside, it is lined with soft and warm fleece.
The palm surface is rough and grippy.
The fit is optimal for slipping on easily when belaying. I mostly use them for belaying or occasionally for following a lead when I’m cold. For around 30€, they are a great deal, and I pack 2-3 pairs for a weekend to always have a fresh, dry pair each day.
Favorite: Showa PVC 620 Gloves
Certification: Cat. III, EN 374-1:2016/Type B (Chemical), EN 388 (Mechanical, 3121X), EN 374-5:2016 (Virus), CE Approved
This glove features a cotton liner coated with PVC, allowing it to absorb some moisture inside.
It is fully waterproof up to the cuff. This allows water to drain well when climbing in wet conditions.
The liner inside is fine and not particularly thick.
This glove is my absolute favorite for lead climbing. The thin material provides excellent dexterity, and the fit allows wearing a thin merino liner underneath if needed. At around 5€ per pair, the price is fantastic. For multi-pitch climbing, I usually take at least two pairs to swap if one gets too sweaty.
Showa Dual Latex Winter Gloves
Certification: EN 511 (Cold), Cat. II, EN 388 (Mechanical, 2131X), EN 420 (Work Gloves)
These were comfortable for climbing but got too warm quickly at single-digit subzero temperatures. Once wet, they became uncomfortable. They are listed as water-resistant.
The inside is lined with acrylic, nylon, and polyester.
Not ideal for working with ropes as the outer layer wears out. However, they have good grip.
Show Dual Latex Glove
Certification: Cat. II, EN 388 (Mechanical, 2121X), EN 420 (Work Gloves)
A similarly thin glove that also fits quite well.
The rubber coating does not extend to the edge. While this ensures a snug fit, it also allows moisture to be absorbed and transferred inside.
The interior is not particularly thick and can absorb moisture. It is likely made of nylon and polyester.
Here too, the outer layer wears down over time. However, it remains quite grippy.
OX-ON Chemical Comfort 6300
Certification: EU / 1935/2004 (Food Safe), Cat. III, EN 388 (Mechanical, 3111X), EN 420 (Work Gloves), EN 374-5:2016 (Virus), EN 374 (Chemical)
At under 4€ per pair, they offer great value. Since they have no textile liner, they do not retain much moisture inside, preventing freezing. However, they are not durable enough for rope work or handling ice tools.
Overall, rubber gloves for ice climbing can be a great alternative, but choosing the right model is crucial.
