{"id":27873,"date":"2025-02-16T22:30:24","date_gmt":"2025-02-16T21:30:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ripperkon.de\/?p=27873"},"modified":"2025-02-16T22:30:44","modified_gmt":"2025-02-16T21:30:44","slug":"lead-climbing-self-belayed-solo-climbing-with-grigri-plus-and-maillons-rope-in-backpack","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ripperkon.de\/en\/lead-climbing-self-belayed-solo-climbing-with-grigri-plus-and-maillons-rope-in-backpack\/","title":{"rendered":"Lead Climbing: Self-Belayed Solo Climbing with Grigri Plus and Maillons (Rope in Backpack)"},"content":{"rendered":"

This article is intended to provide some ideas and not serve as a complete guide<\/strong>! Climbing, especially climbing alone, is dangerous, and small mistakes can have severe consequences. Therefore, always exercise caution and thoroughly test any “new” techniques in a safe environment first.<\/p>\n

This setup is designed for using the Grigri as the primary device. The maillons serve as a backup with slip knots in case the Grigri slips or detaches from the harness.<\/p>\n

Procedure<\/strong><\/h2>\n
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  • Find an anchor point directly below the route (ice screws, bolts, tree, etc.).<\/li>\n
  • Build a secure anchor with load direction both upward AND downward.<\/li>\n
  • Tie the rope into the anchor.<\/li>\n
  • Tie a stopper knot (e.g., figure-eight knot) at the other end of the rope.<\/li>\n
  • Tie stopper knots every 3-6 meters (e.g., slip knots).<\/li>\n
  • Feed the rope into an empty backpack or first into a dry bag before placing it in the backpack.<\/li>\n
  • Properly thread the rope into the Grigri (rope coming from the backpack is the brake rope, rope to the anchor is the “climber side”).<\/li>\n
  • Fix the Grigri in an upright position using a chest harness (does not bear any load; can be improvised with a 120cm sling and gear carabiner).<\/li>\n
  • Test the belay device for proper function.<\/li>\n
  • Attach 1-2 maillons to the tie-in loop and thread the rope from the backpack downward, then upward through the maillons before the Grigri (see photo).<\/li>\n
  • Prepare some slack rope if necessary.<\/li>\n
  • Start climbing.<\/li>\n
  • Clip the rope into protection as usual while you climb.<\/li>\n
  • Occasionally secure a quickdraw with a rubber band or friction knot to prevent accumulating excessive slack in the system, which might not be noticeable while climbing.<\/li>\n
  • At the end of the pitch, build an anchor and secure the rope end.<\/li>\n
  • Set up for rappelling, then remove gear from the route while rappelling. In traverses, leave quickdraws in place if necessary, and secure the rope below potential friction points to minimize abrasion.<\/li>\n
  • Once at the bottom, dismantle the anchor and climb back up using a top-rope solo setup. Be mindful of rope stretch in long pitches (ground fall risk!).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    In this video, I demonstrate the setup and provide additional details.<\/p>\n