Blue Ice CHOUCAS PRO – Ultra Light Climbing Harness
I chose this climbing harness when I wanted to make my entire climbing setup significantly lighter. And with only around 150 grams, this harness offers an almost full-featured climbing harness with sufficient gear loops and a tie-in loop.
Data
• Waistbelt and leg loops with breathable mesh fabric
• Four large gear loops
• Four attachment points for ice screws on the waistbelt
• Speed buckle on the waistbelt
• High-strength “Magic Ring” belay loop
• Patented, detachable leg loops with secured aluminum buckles
• Adjustable and replaceable rear elastic strap
• Ultra-lightweight: 128 g (XS), 134 g (S), 140 g (M), 146 g (L), 152 g (XL)
• Waist/leg measurements: XS (63-76 cm/44-51 cm); S (68-81 cm/48-55 cm), M (74-87 cm/52-59 cm), L (81-94 cm/57-64 cm), XL (90-103 cm/63-70 cm)
• Materials: UHMW polyethylene, high-strength PES, aircraft aluminum, acetal buckles
• Complies with CE/EN 12277 Type C climbing harness certification
• UIAA certified
• Designed in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc
• Ideal for mountaineering, rock, and ice climbing
It’s a harness for demanding routes where weight is a major factor. From the front, it looks like a classic sport climbing harness, only significantly thinner, sleeker, and lighter.
The back is also minimalistic but equipped with the essentials.
Packed in the supplied bag, it’s smaller than my climbing shoe.
With the two loops, the bag can be secured to gear.
Even unpacked, you can see how compact this harness is.
Waistbelt
The waistbelt closes with a cam buckle on the left front and is width-adjustable.
The load-bearing element is the edge tape. The rest of the belt consists of airy mesh. The multi-layered mesh areas give it some shape.
When packed, the harness comes out quite creased and deformed. So far, the mesh has shown no signs of damage.
The gear loops are made of a sheath with a slightly flexible plastic reinforcement inside.
The harness has two gear loops on each side, plus loops for two ice screw clippers on each side.
The loops for ice screw holders fit the small Petzl Caritool. For the Petzl Caritool Evo, the older model with wire doesn’t fit through, but the new one with the orange cord does. I haven’t tested other clippers.
The main issue is the waistbelt’s stability. The material collapses under load.
In the middle at the back, there’s a small fifth gear loop. In my opinion, this could be slightly larger.
Tie-In Loop
Unlike some other ultralight harnesses, the Choucas Pro has a full-strength tie-in loop.
However, it’s much thinner than those on classic sport climbing harnesses.
With thin 7.1mm half ropes, the whole setup looks cohesive. With a 10mm rope, it becomes more apparent how minimal this harness truly is.
Leg Loops
The leg loops are equipped with a special toggle buckle. This allows the harness to be put on and taken off without removing skis.
The load is carried by the toggle, which is threaded through the blue loop. A small elastic loop secures the connection.
The leg loops are also made of mesh material. A rubber cord is tied at the back to prevent the leg loops from sliding down. The harness comes with a knot that can slide through the loop. I tied the rubber cord to the loop with a barrel knot for a secure connection.
In the middle at the back of the waistbelt, the leg loop’s rubber cord is clipped in.
The length can be individually adjusted with the knot.
The leg loops hold their shape relatively well, but comfort quickly diminishes on hanging belays.
Additionally, the narrow straps don’t distribute load across the body as broadly as stiffer, wider harnesses. But in return, the harness is ultra-light and highly breathable.
Conclusion
I have been using the harness for over 2 years.
Tie-In Loop
The tie-in loop is very comfortable for belaying and is highly compatible with particularly light and small carabiners.
Gear Loops
The gear loops hold their shape even with a good amount of quickdraws and protection gear. They’re not quite as easy to clip as plastic gear loops, but they’re close.
Use Case
The harness is well-suited for rock climbing. However, it sacrifices a good amount of comfort, especially in hanging belays where a bit more comfort would be welcome. But when I want to climb a simple route with light gear or climb unroped but still want to rappel afterward, I’m happy to use this harness.
In ice, the waistbelt’s lack of stability makes compatibility with ice screw holders less than ideal. They squeeze the harness together and sit less securely than on more rigid harnesses.
It’s also good to use with skis since the leg loops can be easily opened. Therefore, it may also be a good choice for ski mountaineering and alpine tours. However, as I don’t engage in these activities, I won’t judge too strongly here.
Final Words
I now mostly use this harness only when I absolutely need to save weight or am only carrying it for rappelling. Otherwise, I prefer a bit more comfort and am willing to carry the extra weight.
*Link to Bergfreunde.de
