Toprope: Rope-Solo with TAZ LOV3 and Backup

Attention!

Climbing is generally a dangerous sport. Climbing alone is even more dangerous. You are completely responsible for yourself and your safety. With Top-Rope Solo, you can secure yourself quite well, but you must recognize potential sources of error and handle everything carefully and attentively. The devices described here are not made for Rope-Solo and are therefore being used for an unintended purpose. Devices can fail, and carabiners can open in unexpected ways. Therefore, always use backups and thoroughly test every system in a safe environment! Even small mistakes can lead to a fatal fall.

The TAZ LOV3

The LOV3 is a belay device that works with ropes between 9.5 and 11mm in diameter but meets different standards depending on the rope thickness. It is certified across the full range as a “manual locking assist device according to EN 15151-1”.

I use the small yellow cord to keep the device upright. Since the rope runs straight through the device, it can easily slide upwards on a lightly tensioned rope. You don’t need to pull in slack while climbing.

In the event of a fall, the device tilts and clamps the rope. However, if it cannot tilt, it won’t clamp the rope.

When under load, you can descend on the rope using the lever, even on a tensioned rope.

Always use a backup

For backup, you can use the classic methods: stopper knots, an ascender, or possibly even the ASAP. I usually hang a Petzl hand ascender with a bit of extension from the belay loop and occasionally tie stopper knots into the rope.

Conclusion

I really like this device. A big advantage is that you can easily lower yourself down again. With setups using ascenders, you always have to go through a complicated process to switch systems.
However, a backup is still absolutely necessary. A carabiner can open, and devices can fail. The LOV3, for example, can be prevented from tilting when climbing close to the rock, and then the clamping mechanism won’t work.